Gathering of Nations powwow biggest yet

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Organizers have described this year's Gathering of Nations Millennium Celebration held on the April 28 weekend as "succeeding all expectations."

From its start on Friday morning to the conclusion early Sunday, thousands of people watched more than 2,800 dancers move to the beat of the 48 drum groups in attendance. Line-ups for the grand entry filled aisles in the seating areas of the University of New Mexico arena, as the floor slowly became a pool of human bodies, swaying to the beat of the thunderous drums.

Long lines of people waited to buy tickets at all hours, and the Indian Traders Market was jam-packed. Crowds moved at a snail's pace past the stalls of artisans selling jewelry, framed art, pottery, clothing and more. Food booths dished out hundreds of pounds of fresh roasted corn, roasted turkey legs and thousands of Navajo Tacos, by far the most popular provision.

Vancouverite Coral Baptiste, who first experienced the Gathering of Nations Powwow last year, was again impressed by the sheer magnitude of the event.

"They keep everything moving and it really is organized very well. It's just magical being here with so many people and feeling the energy of the drums and dancers."

Baptiste, a jingle dancer, said the competition is fierce at a powwow with so many participants "but who cares about winning." Just being in the midst of all these great dancers at the biggest powwow on earth is enough," she said.

"I'm having a great time. I haven't slowed down, and I'm still feeling good. This place makes me feel good," said Maggie Black Kettle, a traditional dancer and Blackfoot Elder who lives in Calgary. She took third place in the women's Elders dance competition.

Margaret Kappo, from Sturgeon Lake, Alta., agreed the powwow was well organized, with good signage, clean bathrooms and great extras like good entertainment and the very moving pueblo and gourd dances. But, she noticed some of the "magic" she felt when she first attended the powwow six years ago was compromised by the sheer size of the event.

"It seemed more like a big, commercial show. It's so big, it doesn't seem to have heart anymore," she observed. She recalled the talant of the powwow announcers from years before.

"They just kept you in your seat waiting to hear more, joking and giving you great info. I didn't find the announcers particularly captivating this year. I don't think they had the time. They just had to keep things moving," she said.

She also wondered why children one year old and up had to pay full price for powwow tickets. But Kappo's biggest concern was for Elders and the handicapped. Fire regulations did not permit any wheelchairs on the arena floor, and the crowds made maneuvering a wheelchair, and sometimes just walking, difficult.

"My mother had such a hard time getting up and down all those stairs to her seat," Kappo said, suggesting special access and seating for Elders as a possibility.

Pre-grand entry performances were popular with the crowd this year, especially singer Chief Jim Billey from Florida. The audience craned their necks to get a glimpse of the live alligator he performs with, kept on a leash by a handler. Lewis Burns, from Australia, and The Northern Lites, an Aleut dance troupe from Alaska, were also hits.

Friday evening's appearance by vice president of the United States, Al Gore, caused a stir. He watched the Men's Southern Fancy Dance and shook many hands, promising to return to the Gathering of Nations Powwow when he is elected president of the United States.

Perhaps the most memorable powwow event was the Friday evening performance of the New Mexico Pueblo people. Dressed in their traditional garb, some dancers wearing buffalo headdresses or Kachina-like masks, brought an earthy spirituality to the powwow competition. As they slowly moved around the arena, their dances and chants brought a hush to the crowd.

"This is the first time in history that the Pueblo people have come together to sin, dance and share their culture with others like this," said Melonie Mathews, a powwow co-ordinator.

Saturday's Gourd Dances were also moving. A central drum group was surrounded by singers, then male dancers with rattles, then a large outer circle of women. The Gourd Dance was originally danced by an organization of respected men - first warriors, later military and now those who have done exceptional things in their life.

Many of the men wore regalia signifying the wars in which they had served. This year's dance was especially meaningful to Vietnam veterans, who marked the end of that battle 25 years ago. All dancers sang and danced in place, and as the power of their prayers climaxed, a healing calm overtook the arena until a powwow announcer finally broke the spell to announce the next competition.

Following the Miss Indian World crowning, the crowd was treated to a hoop dancing performance. The wee hours of Sunday morning saw the completion of final competitions and the adult category prizes awarded.

Elated organizers closed the Gathering of Nations Powwow offices for a week after the powwow ended. After a brief rest they were back at it, updating their award-winning website, completely re-designed twice a year, and preparing for the 18th annual Gathering of Nations Powwow set for April 26 to 28, 2001.

If you go

Tickets

* A few weeks before going, make sure you order powwow and Miss Indian World Pageant tickets over the internet at www.gatheringofnations.com, or you'll miss everything as you stand in line. If you have a major credit card, just punch in the number and specify how many tickets you want, and they'll be waiting for you at a special booth when you get there. Tickets can also be ordered by phone at (505) 836-2810 closer to next year's powwow date.

* Buy a weekend powwow pass that gets you a wristband and allows you to come and go as you like. If you've only paid a daily rate, once you leave the building for a breath of air - they won't let ou back in.

Getting there

* If you plan to attend next year's powwow, and aren't up for the long drive from Canada to New Mexico, many airlines fly direct from major cities in Canada to Albuquerque. If you can book early, you may get a good price, but seat costs can be high since it's not a popular run.

* Consider leaving a few days early and really experience the Southwest! Fly to Las Vegas, then rent a car and drive the Interstate 40 or the historic Route 66 from Nevada to New Mexico. Prices for flights and car rentals are considerably lower. Be sure to confirm ahead of time that the car rental firm will allow their cars to be driven as far as New Mexico. Many will not let you. The drive from Albuquerque to Las Vegas, with no stops, will take you about nine hours.

Roadside Attractions

* There are too many attractions to mention here regarding what you can see and do on your drive across Arizona. The Grand Canyon, Canyon de Chelly, and Sedona are only three fascinating places in Arizona, and Acoma (Sky City) and Taos Pueblo in New Mexico. Pick up the Lonely Planet "Southwest" guide to Arizona, New Mexico and Utah, Lonely Planet Publications ISBN 0 86442 539 2 for great, detailed info to see everything and get the best deals.

Accommodation

* Hotels along Route 66 are low-priced around the time of the powwow, since it's the shoulder season for tourism. Good, clean rooms with two double beds can be had for as low as $20 U.S. ($30 Canadian) per night.

* Pre-book your hotel in Albuquerque. Rooms near the University of New Mexico on Central Avenue are economical.

Shopping

* If you're after any fine silver and turquoise jewellery, or hand-built pueblo pottery, you'll find the best prices in Gallup, New Mexico or at roadside stands in the back reaches of Arizona and New Mexico. The best deals are in Gallup on Saturdays at the flea market.