Capital cooking

Page 10

You can find a little bit of home-with an upscale twist-the next time you visit the nation's capital. Sweetgrass Aboriginal Bistro is about to celebrate its first anniversary. Located on Murray Street in Ottawa's trendy Byward Market, the restaurant is owned and operated by husband and wife team Phoebe and Warren Sutherland.

Phoebe is a James Bay Cree from Mistissini Lake in northern Quebec. Warren was born in Jamaica but moved to the United States when he was a teenager. The two met while studying at the New England Culinary Institute. After apprenticing at a variety of upscale restaurants throughout the United States and Canada, the two chefs decided it was time to open up their own establishment on Nov. 15 of last year.

The building they chose to house their business is located on a street that is home to many restaurants that are known for adventurous and high-level fare. The area is becoming popular with lovers of haute cuisine.

" There are lots of great restaurants here. They're pretty well known," said Phoebe, during an interview at the bistro on Sept. 25.

With decor and an ambiance that makes Aboriginal people feel at home, the menu represents a five-star version of down home First Nation cooking.

"A lot of game meat and a lot of fish," is the way Phoebe described Native cuisine.

"It's natural. There's not a lot of manipulation. Everything kind of showcases itself," Warren added.

"And we do everything in house, from the breads to the desserts," Phoebe added.

The restaurant seats 55 patrons inside and there's room for another five in a small bar area. When the weather's nice another 35 people can enjoy a meal on a intimate, tree shrouded patio in the backyard.

The biggest challenge they face in getting the business established for the long term is also their biggest advantage in a very competitive marketplace.

"My people, the Crees, when they come from up north to come here, well it is a little pricey. But one of the best comments I ever got was 'Oh, we wanted to come for something different but not too different. It's still kind of a reminder of what you would eat back up North.' The good thing is we do get a lot of repeat customers. We've got a lot of regulars now," she said.